Author

Hannah Berman

Browsing

Fridays, they were thinking and thinking of eating, and not thinking of eating loaves of bread, but thinking of eating candy. They wanted candy. They wanted the sticky sweet. They needed it. A desire like hunger gnawed in their stomachs and stretched across the vast systems of their body. It was in their blood, a pulsating signal. 

It must be had. 

They tried not thinking of thinking of eating and not thinking of eating the candy. But the candy is what they wanted and they wanted the candy. They could not not think about thinking about eating candy. It was what they wanted to think about. They wanted to think about wanting to think about wanting to eat and wanting to eat candy. It was the candy they wanted. 

The sickly sugar would melt in their mouths. It would dissolve into the purest chemical form. It would be absorbed. It would be burned. Oh, how they wanted it to burn. Not burning, but blazing. Not blazing, but obliteration. Burn it down. Down, down, down. 

They did not have candy. They wanted it, but did not have it. Where to get it? The candy. They wanted it and did not have it. They needed to obtain it, to own it until it could become a part of them. Until they consumed it and before it consumed them. They wanted to find the candy so they could eat the candy so they could stop thinking about wanting to think about eating the candy. 

They found the candy. It was theirs. They were its. Open the mouth, let the tongue feel it. Suck on it. This was the candy that they wanted. This was the candy that they wanted to think about eating. This was the candy that they wanted to eat. Their wish was fulfilled. 

For a moment. Then the candy was gone, the sugar gone from the system. To fill the void, desire returned. It returned with a single thought. A thought about candy. They wanted the candy, but it was gone. So they thought about the candy. They were thinking about eating the candy. They were craving candy. Their intent towards candy returned. It was stronger than before. 

They needed to find the candy, but the candy was gone. The candy could not be found. They could not find the candy. Who had seen the candy last? They didn’t see the candy. It was gone. 

Their veins were burning. Not from the candy which beautifully burned. This burning burned. It tore them down. It gutted them, inside to outside. From here to there, only the skeletons remained, charred. They were charred skeletons. They, charred skeletons, wanted candy. They did not have tongues to eat the candy. A mouth for the candy to rest. A stomach to digest. 

They wanted candy. Their bones rattled in rage. Candy. Candy. Candy. They did not have a brain to think about the candy. It was not a thought. Nothing in their bodies could produce such want. They wanted more than bodies want. 

They wanted the candy, the candy that consumes. 


Kellene O’Hara has been published in The Fourth River, Marathon Literary Review, South Florida Poetry Journal, and elsewhere. Her writing has been nominated for the Best of the Net and the Best Small Fictions. She has an MFA in Creative Writing from The New School. She teaches writing at the University of Mississippi. Find her on Twitter @KelleneOHara, Instagram @KelleneWrites, and online at kelleneohara.com.

On a Tuesday afternoon, Alice Clark takes a bite of a burrito. She sits at a weatherworn table in her backyard. Her daughter jumps on the trampoline. 

Her burrito is loaded with both guacamole and nostalgia. Alice hasn’t eaten at Mad Max’s since she worked there in high school, but when a new location popped up down the street, she found herself pulling into the parking lot on opening day. 

Her first bite goes down easy. But the second requires thorough chewing, an exercise that seems like it may never end. She looks down at the tortilla shell wrapped in shiny foil, strands of her own saliva stretching from one end to the other as if bridging some cavernous danger — crushed avocadoes, pulverized tomatoes, the flesh of a dead animal. 

She remembers that flesh cooking in a smoker outside the back of the restaurant, ten years ago. That smoker was the prized possession of the chef who helped start the place. 

She can still picture his sheepish smile. Back then, she thought it radiated purity. Really, it hid missing teeth. 

The teeth left a gap she could feel when they kissed. When her tongue reticently searched inside of his mouth. She was so unsure, then, of everything, but especially of how to be with a man. She was 17, inexperienced, blushing. He was 28, insistent, adult. 

It started with lingering glances. She had an age-appropriate boyfriend, but outside of him, boys and men had never paid her much attention before. The chef’s inviting stares in the blisteringly hot kitchen warmed her deeper than the sun ever could. She started to return them, and add a daring smile — learning for the first time to flex a muscle she would turn to again and again in the years to come, until settled safely in a marriage.

The flirtations culminated, finally, in a frenzied drive to his house. Her parents were out of town. His girlfriend was working late. She lied to her boyfriend on the way there, telling him she was headed home. Instead, with the top down on the used convertible her parents bought for her, she sped along streets she had never driven before, her hair blowing wildly in the air. Her skin smelled like salt and frying oil. His did too, when he took off his shirt, baring his chest in his bedroom. She felt his erection inside his pants, hot and just for her, somehow different from any she had come across before. More carnal. Animal flesh.

Alice swallows her lingering bite, and with it pushes down this memory. 

When it happened, she felt silly, like a child dressing up in her mother’s dresses and high heels, only to look in the mirror and see that they don’t fit at all. She was so sure, feeling desired by an older man, that she was an adult. But it was a girl that ran from his house that night before anything more could happen.

And she knows much more could have happened. Instead, it ended with Alice speeding away in the dark night, towards the safety of her parents’ empty house. She quit her job the next day. He left town soon after. His recipes are all that is left of him now. 

It’s her daughter’s cries for help from the trampoline that breaks her train of thought, jolting her back to reality. She gets up from the table, narrowly avoiding a splinter primed for her palm. She helps her daughter down the small ladder onto the soft grass, smelling the girl’s nutty, sun-toasted hair.

When Alice returns to her lunch, she finds that the crushed avocadoes appear soft and sweet. The pulverized tomatoes now look, simply, like the innocuous salsa that they are. They no longer have the power to scare or intimidate her. 

For the first time in a long time, she feels happy to be older. Age has brought crow’s feet and stretch marks and tired bones. But it has also brought security, self-confidence, and just enough distance from the near missteps of her past. 

Alice’s appetite returns, and with it comes a silent smile. Her third bite goes down easy. 


Olivia Brochu‘s work has been featured by Five Minute Lit, Motherly, and more. Her piece “Under Pressure” was a finalist in a Women on Writing essay contest. She lives in Allentown, PA with her husband and three sons.

When Jon proposed in a bookstore last summer, I slid my hand into his and said “yes” as readily as I would any question posed by a beloved friend. 

We already knew we’d be in one another’s futures, but not necessarily through marriage; we had shared our reservations in the past about ceremonial traditions and the value the marriage institution holds. Still, I’m British and he’s American, so our hands were tied in many ways. Being wed would enable us to continue building the life we wanted together. As we emerged into the bright afternoon from that aisle of novels stacked floor to ceiling, contentment settled over us. 

Yet that peace was soon shaken when the chatter and expectations quickly followed. Our friends’ opinions had been steadily rising for the course of our relationship, and like the onrush of water above the brim of an overfilled bath, the time had come for their views to be shared with gusto. 

“What’s your plan?” someone asked me two days after getting engaged. “Have you set a date yet?” It took me aback; how could I explain that in the past 48 hours, I hadn’t begun project-managing a wedding? 

“Were you surprised?” almost everyone asked. I’d always reply, “Completely.” I felt compelled to offer people this narrative, abstruse as it was, when actually, I wanted to say, “Not really. We’ve been together for almost five years and discussed marriage at length.” I was leaning into a stereotype that’s typified proposal stories for decades. It’s what those around me expected, maybe even wanted. 

Though many of these remarks were also addressed to Jon, most were directed at me, especially the ones regarding appearance. “You will look gorgeous,” several people said to me, in a tone that hovered between a question, observation, and demand. 

Yes, I was getting married, but I told myself appearing gorgeous while doing so was irrelevant. Initially, I was able to brush off people’s comments. But before long, my thoughts started clinging to them: How will I look on the day?

It wasn’t the first time I’d begun viewing myself like a science experiment. In high school and during my undergrad years, I’d dabbled with various fad diets. I had restricted my food intake, counted calories, and felt a pang of satisfaction when my hip bone brushed against a forearm. Once, during a game of charades at a friend’s house (millennials know how to party), I attempted to act the movie Castaway to a group holding cups of liquor by lifting my tee shirt, sucking in my stomach, and popping out my ribs; in response, someone yelled, “Sexy!” I watched in the mirror as my body grew smaller during those years, along with the bodies of many women I knew, and I felt at ease knowing I was slotting into a popular idea of beauty. I can appreciate now how dangerous a path this can be.

Now, in my early thirties, new insecurities have emerged. I have a heightened awareness of beauty products that promise to “reverse the signs of aging,” and of friends who have frozen their foreheads with Botox. 

The demands of society regarding how a woman should look on her wedding day can stir up likewise alarming behavior. My friend, who married a few years ago, was out for drinks a month before her wedding, with four of us sitting on high leather stalls in a bar playing low music. She gleefully shared details about her upcoming nuptials and explained how the dress she’d ordered was too small, but she was working hard to lose weight to fit into it. 

A silence fell over the table, and perhaps to keep things light with a bit of dark humor, she stirred the red straw in her drink and added in a deadpan voice that her dream, more than anything, was for someone to take one look at her on the day and think, “Oh, someone just give her a sandwich!” as she floated around waif-like in a fabulous dress, pretending only to see admiration in their eyes. 

I’d never waste my time on that when I got married, I told myself.

Therefore, I was more surprised than anyone when I, too, started to scrutinize everything about my own wedding. Jon and I settled on having a courthouse ceremony in Los Angeles, informal and intimate, with only our close family in attendance. We stumbled across photos of a courthouse in Beverly Hills that looked spectacular, and my imagination whirred to life: Us having our picture taken on the impressive steps, me before a magnificent mid-century building at golden hour. It looked perfect. I began researching dresses, sending images to my mother for her opinion; I went to the gym more regularly so the chosen dress would slide on, no problem; I took myself to Sephora and gazed at a saleswoman as she explained how lip liner would make my top lip seem fuller; I watched a YouTube tutorial about eyebrow laminating and seriously considered doing it.

I got into the swing of fashioning a wedding that would look stunning in the way I had seen done many times before. I cared. I did want to look a certain way. 

However, when Jon and I drove to view our stunning chosen courthouse, a security guard told us we had the wrong building. The man cheerfully gave directions to the correct one around the corner, and soon, we arrived at a drab structure. What? I fumed inwardly as we entered the revolving doors to be met by a grumpier personnel. Jon noticed my downcast expression, reached for my hand, and said, “I’m excited to get married to you here. Wherever you want.”

All I could think, though, was that he must be having trouble with his eyes. I was fixated on our dingy backdrop — the gray brickwork, cracked floor tiles, and stale smell that would be our big day. The regret that might linger if we didn’t tick things off in the way we were supposed to. 

I’d lost the point of why we were getting married, as I’d promised myself I wouldn’t. 

The fault didn’t lie with the individuals around me for their uninvited comments, or with me, for reacting negatively and sharing my opinions right back. Rather, I determined it was the wedding industry creating my angst, a capitalist model worth $70.5 billion that, on average, extracts around $30,000 from betrotheds and produces the same emissions in a single day as four people churn out in an entire year. Wedding days as we know them today have been popular since the late 1920s, and I’d been exposed to the business model my entire life in various forms. My insecurity was a product of a well-worn societal system that pressures women to take part, look a certain way, and — heaven forbid — never complain if any of it feels inconvenient. I’d repeatedly seen others contend with these challenges, and I was falling into the same harmful trap.

Hadn’t I, too, upped my exercise routine in readiness to have some photos taken in a figure-hugging dress? It was all very well, me damning the circus of traditional weddings, but as much as I wanted to be above it, I was also giving myself over to the expectation to appear a certain way. And it’s hard to resist when everywhere you look, the industry is imposing prerequisites: #weddingdiet has 21.7m views on TikTok, personal trainers aplenty promote “bridal fitness packages,” and terms such as “shred for the wed” dominate popular media. In 2023, a poll of over 1,000 users of the wedding planning app Hitched revealed 84% felt pressure to lose weight before a wedding day, 85% compared themselves to others online, and 51% think their body image isn’t represented enough in wedding content. In the lead-up to my marriage, I realized I’d fallen prey to a bride’s murky pressures, slotting neatly into that 85%. 

Plus, I’d become critical of others, primarily women, rather than admitting my insecurities. I finally recognized a plain old hunger to compete, to appear a certain way based purely on the slippery, subjective concept of beauty — just like when I’d pushed myself to lose weight to fit in with a crowd during my early twenties. 

It’s helped, since acknowledging this impulse to look a certain way based on the expectations of a pervasive industry, to remind myself who is making money off my life, relationship, and body — because someone is profiting from all the fuss, and it’s not me. If I avoided my inner compass on my own marriage, I was anxious about the decisions I could fall into in the coming years — the ones that also didn’t sit quite right, even if I couldn’t immediately articulate why. Where would that leave me, floating somewhere I don’t recognize, my beliefs scattered like damp confetti? The thought alone made me queasy. 

I made a choice. My wedding diet would involve a strict practice of trimming away the fat — all the expectations, uninvited comments, and supposed ideals, pound by pound — to see more clearly what I truly felt, in all my churning complexity. 

Jon and I went ahead and booked the courthouse that we viewed, and I now can’t imagine getting married anywhere else. I’m embracing the route we have chosen and ignoring the expectations for how a wedding should look. I’m sure there’ll be times when I fall off the wagon and give in to old thought patterns — get up, do better — as with any diet, but if that happens, I will refocus, shut out the noise, and remember exactly what this experience means to me. Most of all, I’ll remember where to direct my frustration and that taking aim at others is the wrong target — because here I am writing about it, after all, my new lip liner stowed safely in sight, no better than the rest.


Emma Minor is a British writer based between Los Angeles and New York City. She is completing her MFA in Creative Writing at The New School and working on her first novel. Emma has written for the Fair Observer and Main Line Today and previously lived in Sierra Leone, running communications for the healthcare organization, Partners In Health.

I grew up in a farmhouse in Ireland where my mother baked every day. Tarts and crumbles and homemade bread, using apples from the orchard, rhubarb from the garden, and gooseberries from the enormous bush on the front lawn. I’m a healthy weight and I don’t do diets; I was raised to think of food as a gift. 

And then I moved to Millburn, a posh New Jersey town, where food is the enemy. At the schoolyard gates, I was surrounded by skinny moms in high-end athleisure wear. In Ireland we call them yummy mummies; in America, they’re identified by a four-letter acronym that’s not PG-friendly. I found myself listening to baffling conversations about keto and paleo and gluten-free options. It’s not so bad, they said. You can barely taste the protein powder. And they’d move on to discussing Bonnie’s 5 a.m. spin class and how much it hurts. If it doesn’t punish my body, it’s not worth it, they said. 

I was gobsmacked. I couldn’t understand the concept of punishing my body. I love my body.  It’s a little squishy, but boy does it have fun. 

Soon I was roped into the Parent Teacher’s Organization at the local elementary school. I’m a mother of three; it was inevitable. In my first year I spent an entire morning baking for a fundraiser. Little did I know that parents don’t necessarily bake for bake sales. Some of the yummy mummies bought $2 cookies at the local bakery and sold them for $1 at the fundraiser, because nobody wants to be overcharged at a school event. It would make more sense to forgo the trip to the bakery and just deposit the cash in the PTO coffers, but I’m guessing that nobody on the PTO majored in Math.  

So I strapped on my apron and got to work. Strawberry almond bars, blondies, brownies, and my personal favorite, Nanaimo bars — a Canadian concoction with layers of chocolate coconut crumb, custard cream, and chocolate ganache. The trick is to keep them at room temperature, so that the chocolate and creamy custard melt on your tongue. I was already anticipating the delicious layer of crunch.  

I’m a fabulous baker. I’ve won prizes. But here’s the thing: nobody ate my cookies. Nobody even bought them. 

The yummy mummies hovered, swatting their kids’ hands away with a ‘don’t you dare touch that’ glare. Let’s pick something healthier, they said. Good luck with that, I thought. It’s a freaking bake sale. And they reached for the pre-packaged-chemical-laden protein bars. 

Why organize a bake sale if you don’t enjoy food? I can’t even imagine what a mindmelt it must be — charitable donation versus calorie intake. But these clever women had it all figured out. Just drop a twenty dollar bill and don’t take any food. The kids get zero treats. At the bake sale counter, I was taking in hundreds of dollars and handing over only an occasional sugar cookie. Oh, the meltdowns I could describe, the little ones’ eyes wide as saucers when they realized they were getting nothing. The local fire department was the lucky recipient of the unsold baked goods. 

And the privation extends beyond the kids. It’s extraordinary how the yummy mummies control their husbands on the kids’ birthday party circuit. Swiping plates of cake from their hands, lasering them with death stares. Honey, really? We talked about this…

Meanwhile, I’ve always encouraged my three daughters to eat what their body craves. In my family, we follow the 80/20 rule. It’s how I was raised. Eighty percent of the time we eat healthily and we indulge twenty percent of the time. Yes, we sometimes glance at packaging for calories and ingredients, but we’re not obsessed. If you want a square of chocolate, eat a square of chocolate. You can’t fool yourself by substituting a rice cake. You’ll end up eating the rice cake and a whole chocolate bar later. Depriving yourself, punishing yourself, it’s not healthy. 

I set my kitchen up for success. My pantry is full of real food (fruits, veggies, whole grains) and there’s always something healthy bubbling on the stove. But we have treats too, lots of them. High-quality chocolate bars, Nutella, and popcorn of every variety. We eat whole milk yogurts because the low-fat ones are full of stabilizers and sugar. And I taught my kids to cook. Homemade soups using Trader Joe’s mirepoix, salads topped with avocado and heirloom tomatoes, and pasta dishes they find on TikTok. My youngest could make croquembouche when she was eight years old — a tower of profiteroles, stuffed with chantilly and drizzled with caramel. 

And yes, teaching kids to bake and cook was torturous. My kitchen was in shambles for years. The cabinets and countertops were caked with flour and dough and misshapen vegetables, and every evening I had to scrub the sticky surfaces. But it was worth it. My three daughters know the joy of preparing and eating food.  

I’m glad of it, because now that they’ve reached their teenage years, the food issues among their peers have gotten worse. Last year we were in a volleyball carpool, so I had a posse of Millburn teens in my car three times a week. I was basically an Uber driver, so they forgot I was there. My youngest was appalled at their snack choices. “Why do you eat this tasteless muck?” she asked. 

“My mom won’t allow me to eat anything else,” said one of the girls. “My brother gets to eat junk food and whatever he wants. Not me.”

“At least you’re allowed to eat snacks,” said another girl. “I’m not.”  

From then on, I left a basket of goodies in the back seat.    

I’m not sure how many Millburn high schoolers have food disorders, but it’s common. And it’s not always the kids you’d expect. It’s a high-achieving town. Our neighbors are surgeons and lawyers and Wall Street moguls, and it’s a top New Jersey school district, so there’s always pressure on the kids. Naturally, when the stress becomes too much, they look to what they can control, and for girls, it’s often food, particularly if they’ve inherited their parents’ hang-ups. 

In the early days of Millburn life, I found the yummy mummy bake sale story hilarious, but I’m not laughing now. I have three teenage daughters and if any of them develop a food disorder it could be fatal. A study by the National Association of Anorexia Nervosa and Associated Disorders reported that 5–10% of people with anorexia die within 10 years after contracting the disease; 18–20% of them will be dead after 20 years, and only 30–40% ever fully recover. That’s sobering news. And it’s very close to home.  

Luckily, I’ve had the good fortune of finding a true friend in Millburn — someone who shares my values, both in food and in life. Our daughters are not close now, but they were best friends when they were three years old. She’s my pickleball partner, my book club buddy, and my dog-walking companion. And though she’s the fittest person I know, she’s also a foodie, and a wonderful cook. We bond over recipes — roasted vegetable tray bakes, hearty meatball subs, and salads topped with rotisserie chicken. 

Her daughter, a senior at Millburn High School, has an eating disorder. A very serious one. Treatment involves forced feedings, weigh-ins, and teams of nutritionists and therapists. Sometimes it’s so grueling that my friend can barely string a sentence together on our walks, and when she’s sobbing in my arms I think of the yummy mummies.  

I shouldn’t blame them, but I do. I despise them for poisoning their daughters’ heads with nonsense, only for that poison to seep into the lunchroom. Skinny girls proudly announcing that they don’t do carbs and trading tips on intermittent dieting and fitting into that prom dress. 

And I know that eating disorders are complicated and stem from many different causes. But these women have normalized controlling food, turning it into something that’s rationed and measured, rather than enjoyed.   

My friend is hopeful that her daughter can go to college this fall, but it’s not a guarantee. Sending her away, knowing that she could suddenly start starving herself again, is terrifying. 

I’m hopeful that my three teenage daughters won’t go down the same path. I hope they grow up savoring textures and flavors and the joy of breaking bread together. But as a parent, there’s only so much I can do. 


Marlene May is an Irish writer from Co. Galway. She is an MFA student at The New School (fiction concentration 2025). Her short story “PTO Dad” was long-listed for the Aurora Prize in 2023. She has also been published on www.irishcentral.com and in the Connaught Tribune.

Evan Hanczor is the founder of Tables of Contents, a reading/tasting series that pairs short selections of prose with small plates inspired by the writing. In 2021, the TOC team put out Tables of Contents Community Cookbook, a cookbook that compiles recipes by former readers and was named one of the best cookbooks of the year by the New Yorker and Vanity Fair. Hanczor is also the owner and chef of Little Egg, the new reincarnation of Williamsburg’s beloved Egg restaurant, which closed in 2020. 

The Inquisitive Eater paid a visit to the most recent TOC reading, which featured Megan Fernandes, Tess Gunty, and Gina Chung (a New School MFA grad!). Hanczor prepared “rabbit food,” aka a carrot puree uni dish and a grazing salad; Tanya Bush of Cake Zine fame made a chocolate layer cake with thick, creamy peanut butter mocha frosting. After the readings and the food, Hanczor led the authors in a panel discussion, talking about their allergies — both culinary and literary. 

We got to sit down with Hanczor to discuss the inspiration for TOC, sustainability in food writing, and the most important thing in the world (tomatoes). Here’s a transcript of our conversation. 


I read in your fantastic piece for Lit Hub that the first inklings of what eventually became Table of Contents came to you while reading The Sun Also Rises. Can you talk to me a little bit about how that reading influenced you?

I was at Tulane, and I was taking this class called Last Call, which was taught by a professor named Dale Edmonds and was the last class he was going to teach at Tulane after 30 years of teaching. I snuck into the class — I had heard about this professor, and I wanted to catch him before he left the school. It was just him teaching his favorite books. Someone teaching a book with that certain kind of passion, particularly their last hurrah — he did it well. And I was also in college, and had this romantic literary tendency. So I was reading The Sun Also Rises in my friend’s backyard, drinking a bottle of red wine, and just thinking, “Man, I wanna live in this book.” I wanted to eat the meals and experience the senses of the book. But I wasn’t a cook. I cooked for my friends, but I wasn’t a cook.

That initial feeling or desire came back when we had some friends who were holding this book festival called Food Book Fair around the corner from Egg in Williamsburg, and they asked us to do the closing dinner for it. George Weld, who was my partner at Egg, is also a writer — a poet-turned-cook. So we had a very similar trajectory, and similar interests. I was like, why don’t we try to do a literary meal? It’s a food/book thing, that would make sense.

So we did this dinner inspired by The Sun Also Rises, which was five courses, each course inspired by a specific scene, just like the reading series is now. There’s a scene where some of the characters eat at this restaurant, Madame Lecomte’s, in Paris. And they eat this roast chicken with green beans and potatoes, so we turned that into a salad. There’s obviously iconic bullfighting happening in the book. So we did kind of a bullfight dish, with mushroom powder all over the plate and beet juice splattered like blood and a roast steak.

I think the scene that kind of hit me the most when I was reading the book, which still is one of my favorite dishes, is when two characters, Jake and Bill, are on the Spain-France border, fishing. And they’re chilling their bottles of white wine in the stream where they’re fishing, and they catch a fish, and they wrap the fish in ferns and put it under a tree to stay cool, and that just felt like a dish sort of writing itself. So we did trout wrapped in dandelion greens, with a wine sauce. As we were putting that meal together, it made me feel like there was some real creatively-satisfying spark there, and unlimited potential for that to repeat itself over and over again — with any other number of books.

You’ve also written that “nearly every great book has moments of food in it.” Why would you say that is, in your opinion?

We’ve gotten a lot of answers about that from authors at the reading series. Sometimes, when we reach out to authors to take part in the series, they’ll say, “This sounds great, but there’s no food in my book, so I might not be a great fit.” And I always ask ’em to send a copy, because there just is always food. I don’t think we’ve ever encountered a book with zero food. Some, you know, have been a little bit sparse, but actually, when that’s the case, usually the moments where food shows up are particularly powerful.

The question we ask is, why do you deploy food in your work? What does food do for you as a tool that some other subject or focal point couldn’t quite get across? For me, food reveals so much about a person, about a place. It’s one of the most intimate things that we have and hold onto in our lives. If you move somewhere, one of the things you might bring with you is your food memories. You carry that as a deep part of your identity. And then, of course, there’s what food says about class and status. It just touches on everything.

Actually, one of the things that brought me to cooking is that I realized ultimately that through food, I could engage with or touch on in the real world a lot of the topics I was hoping to write about. So I think that’s why it then finds its way back into fiction, into stories; because it is this powerful subject that people have reference points for and have an emotional connection to, and therefore can allow for something to happen in the story in a particular way.

You went to school for English. Do you still identify as a writer? What kind of writing do you do?

Only in my most generous and aspirational moments! I still write. I mostly wrote poetry when I was in college, and so foolishly thought that would be my career. I continue to aspire to be more of a writer than I am, and I feel so lucky that I’m able to engage with writers that I admire. I have half-joked that food has been the back door into the literary community that my writing might not have gotten me into. And also, sometimes I’m a little suspicious of it — I’m like, “Is all this sort of time spent with other people’s work scratching some literary itch that I should be scratching myself?”

So I always hope to set aside more time for some of my own work. And I think there’s room in my mind in the future development of Tables of Contents for that to happen. You know, we did the cookbook during COVID as a fundraiser, and that was more of an editorial project — I was editing and curating those selections. It definitely lit me up in a way that made me feel like doing some other publishing work, including something where I’m writing more, is on the horizon.

When you do write, do you write about food?

Sometimes, yes. It’s funny, when I started cooking, I was noticing food making its way into my writing in a way that really upset me. I was so frustrated by it. I was like, “Get these tomatoes out of my poem! I want to write about big things, like life and death and sex and love.” And then, you know, eventually, I realized tomatoes are one of the most important things in the world to me now.

The tomatoes are the sex and the love.

Yeah. Especially a good one. Nothing sexier than a dripping tomato on a thickly mayoed piece of bread, you know?

Amen to that.

I think what I probably end up doing in relation to writing and food is I’ll start writing about food in some way — food is the map that I’m writing on — but I’m using it to get to something else, whether that’s some interpersonal dynamic that I’ve observed, or something simply personal. I like writing about food, but I think my internal sensor sits up a little bit. It’s like, don’t just write about food, ’cause you already do all these other things with food. Write about other things! So I guess: yes, I write about food, reluctantly and hopefully more than that.

Since you’re coming in contact with all these varied types of food writing, do you have a definition of what good food writing looks like to you?

No, I don’t think so. My preference is writing that feels confident — actually, I think, similar to my cooking preferences. I’m attracted to a sort of writing that you can tell that under the surface, there’s a lot of practice, there’s a lot of mastery, there’s been a lot of thought, and that it’s chosen intentionally. There’s a big difference between that and writing that tries to appear confident, which often, to me, comes off like bravado. You see the cracks in it, and there’s a shell of perhaps also skillfulness there, but it’s doesn’t go as deep. I like to feel like there’s writing with roots, even if that’s not shown on the page — something that you can feel below it.

You’ve touched on this a little bit already, but when you find an author and you want them to read at Tables of Contents, how do you decide which dish they describe is worth trying to cook?

With authors for the reading series, we ask them to send us a couple options that come to mind, and that can be a really helpful starting point. And sometimes, especially if it’s an author that maybe tends to think and write more about food, they’ve already put some thought into that. But just as often, we’ll pick something that they didn’t recommend, that you might not even think of as a food moment. 

One example is we had Carmen Maria Machado come for her second book, and there’s some food in it, but there’s also this particular description about the softness of a baby’s fontanelle, on their skull. And I don’t know if she mentions gnocchi later in the passage or not, but we made these gnocchi that suggested that softness. That’s definitely not a food scene, but it was the thing that felt most interesting, or exciting to translate into food. You would not expect to engage with this descriptive moment in an edible way, right? That’s one of the cool things about the series, is that the food itself has all this emotional gravity to it. And then sometimes you can really go off the rails of what you would expect to see in terms of food translated from the page to the plate, which for me has always been one of the most exciting parts about it. 

Running a restaurant is amazing in lots of ways, but your main goal in a restaurant is to basically provide a sense of comfort and deliciousness so that people want to come back — purely tap into the pleasure centers of the brain. But one of the things I love about fiction is you can do other things. You can tap into lots of other emotions — darker, more complicated. I don’t always have that opportunity with food.

So cool. I love the idea of this baby’s head.

It’s so dark.

So dark. And I will say that one of my favorite things about the experience of being at Tables of Contents and listening to the passage being read was that the strangers at the table with me turned to each other at the end of each reading, and we were like, “What do you think the dish will be? I’m pretty sure it’s gonna be cake for this one…”

Yeah, I like that too — the surprise and the unknown. Particularly when there are maybe a couple of candidates mentioned in the passage, and you don’t really know how it’s gonna come out, or it’s really unclear where anything edible might come from.

I really want to talk about sustainability at the intersection of food and writing, because I know that that’s something you care about, and it seems like it’s a huge part of your focus at Little Egg. Does sustainability factor at all into how you’ve designed Tables of Contents?

We try to apply the same sort of sourcing practices that apply to the restaurant to Tables of Contents, but sometimes those things do come up against a specific departure from the book. I think it was for a Catherine Lacey or Kathleen Alcott reading a long time ago, there was some bologna sandwich we were doing. But I didn’t want to buy factory-farmed pork, Oscar Mayer bologna. So I got Vermont mortadella, and I was really conflicted about it, because there’s something very distinctive about the flavor and the experience and the reference point of bologna that is not at all the same as mortadella. 

It was interesting to explore that — how with storytelling, you can choose subject matters without a real-world impact. You could mention bologna, and you’re not necessarily putting money into the systems that raise animals in horrific conditions. (Although you could argue about what you promote in fiction and the positions you take, and that’s a much bigger conversation.) But with food, it’s not theoretical. It has an impact on the ground somewhere. So that’s one area where sometimes there’s an interesting friction for me, thinking about how to honor the text in a way that I really feel committed to doing in this series, and also honor the values of food that I’m working with.

In every case where we can make a choice that feels aligned with the values that we’d normally work with for sourcing, we’ll do that. But there are still some times where if it says Wonder Bread, it’s gotta be Wonder Bread, you know? You’re just not gonna get the texture and flavor of that experience without it, and it’s not gonna hit or resonate in the same way. It’s an interesting sort of push-pull.

I also read about the regenerative residency that you guys are starting up, which seems tied to all three of these tenets — sustainability, food, and writing. Can you talk a little bit about how you decided to carve out that space and why?

There’s this farm called Glynwood in Cold Spring, New York. It’s an incredibly magical place, and I first stumbled upon it eight or more years ago. I was taking part in this policy and advocacy training course that was being started by the James Beard Foundation, for chefs to develop more skills around really direct policy and advocacy action, around issues that are important to us. Over the years I have become very close with Sarah and Kathleen, the folks who ran it at the time. They do really amazing industry-focused work on regenerative agriculture, on promoting and sustaining local agriculture in the Hudson Valley — and beyond, but with a focus on the valley. It’s this beautiful property and they have several buildings on the property that I thought would be an incredible place for an artist’s residency.

So two years ago, I spoke with Glynwood and asked if they’d be willing to let us produce an artist’s residency on their property — just give us access to one of the cottages for a few weeks, and we try to take care of all the logistics. And they said yes. Giada Scodellaro was our first resident, and she was the perfect person for it.

The idea was exactly as you said, to tie together more directly the sustainability, food, and agriculture work that I do with Tables of Contents, and see what interesting work or space could be created by bringing them together.

We hosted Giada last year, and this year we’re going to have two residents in the spring, and hopefully, this will be the last of our trial years. We’re lucky to have access to the space from late fall to early spring, so there’s potential for quite a number of residencies if we could figure out logistics and funding. And we want to create an application process that’s more open, to bring a wider range of folks into the potential resident realm. It’s one of those ridiculous ideas where we don’t have any money, we don’t have a plan for this, but we’ve been offered this space to use, and we’re just gonna try it and figure it out and go from there. So hopefully we can keep it going, but it was an amazing first run, at the very least. 


Hannah Berman is the Fiction Editor for The Inquisitive Eater, and a Brooklyn-based journalist covering food and culture news. Her fiction has been featured in anthologies published by Allegory Ridge, Thirty West, and Wanderlust Journal; you can also read her writing in the Sad Girl Diaries, Talk Vomit, and On the Run Fiction, among other places. Read more at hannah-berman.com.

On October 21st of 1962, Hurley Brennan got behind the wheel of his Chevy Apache heading to Pocatello on errands. When he could no longer see his farm in the rearview he flipped on the radio. It was Hurley’s secret pleasure to tune into pop music shows broadcasting out of Idaho Falls or Salt Lake City when he was alone. And alone he was on that day, in that truck, when he first heard Dee Dee Sharp describing in verse a dance named after the foodstuff that was the primary source of his financial and dietary sustenance. The bouncy pop diddy was instantly familiar to the farmer, as it shared the same melody, 4/4 drum pattern, and high soprano backing vocals as The Marvelettes 1961 hit “Please Mr. Postman.” But it was the theme of the song — the potatoes — that drew him in. 

In church, Hurley had been told repeatedly that Rhythm and Blues and Rock and Roll were the devil’s music, but he rationalized his indulgence in the dubious entertainment with the excuse that he needed to “know the enemy’s tactics,” as Bishop Taylor had often preached.

It seemed an odd coincidence to Hurley that Dee Dee’s “Mashed Potato Time” was also playing on the RCA color televisions in Block’s display window as he walked toward the entrance. Hurley looked both ways, lest there be any fellow parishioners around, before ogling the scantily clad women doing the Mashed Potato dance on American Bandstand.

After buying needed items at Block’s and running a few more errands around town Hurley made his way home — purposefully leaving the radio off, as he always did on return trips — hoping to offset his earlier intemperance by leaving room for the Lord to speak, should He desire to do so. Though he waited patiently during the hour-long voyage, all Hurley could hear was Dee Dee Sharp’s voice as though it were still crackling through the truck’s single speaker.

It was a joy to pull up to the farm and see his two daughters playing in the yard while his wife, Margaret, hung clothes on a line between their house and a river birch tree at the close of a sunny afternoon.

Hurley stepped out of the truck and gathered the boxes and bags from Block’s. Debbie toddled toward him, flashing a smile devoid of front teeth.  

“What’d ya get me Papa?” 

“Something to keep you warm this winter.”

“Is it pwetty?”

“Not too pretty.”

Debbie made a pouty face and went back to playing with her older sister, Clara.

Hurley looked out at his thirty-seven-acre potato farm, relieved for the end of harvest season and happy for the extra income his nine new acres brought in. 

As he walked towards the front door with an armload of purchases, Hurley stopped to watch his daughters at play. Clara had a large potato dressed in raggedy doll clothes that danced with Debbie’s Barbie. 

“Been digging your own harvest?” Hurley asked. 

Clara smiled and held up her dolly. “Look at my tater lady, Papa,” she said proudly.

It happened now and again that potatoes grew with fissures — deformed and knobby — with something resembling a body part. They might look as though they had a head, or even a couple of arms or legs. Some even looked like they had faces. But the potato Clara held up did not only have a head and four stubby appendages — it had something else, too.

Hurley set down the packages and took the curious doll in his meaty right hand. He was taken aback by just how human the potato looked — and not just how human, but how feminine

At first Hurley thought the two bumps under the doll’s blouse must have been added by Clara, who was herself beginning to form bumps on her chest, but upon lifting the homemade blouse Hurley was shocked to see the two round breast shapes were an inseparable part of the peculiar potato.

“Stop Papa, we’re pwaying wif her,” Debbie cried as Hurley pulled off the doll’s clothes and moved swiftly toward the house.

“No, Papa! Bring her back! Please…” Clara called.

Staring at the deformed tuber, Hurley walked trancelike through the doorway and collapsed onto the sofa. He blinked his eyes, shook his head, and then looked again. What he saw when he took off the doll’s skirt was even stranger and more improbable than everything else about the vegetable. For there, between the humanlike potato’s stubby legs, were detailed outlines of a labia. And when Hurley squinted and looked even closer, he also saw the legendary “little man in the canoe,” as his high school classmates had called the pleasure button that sat atop a woman’s private parts. Invasive images of Hurley’s own lustful teenage deeds began to take over his mind, adding even more confusion to the moment. 

There was only one conclusion he could come to: the perverse potato was sent by Satan himself.

Seized with a sudden dread, Hurley moved swiftly to the kitchen, dropped the weird root crop onto a cutting board, and grabbed a butcher knife.

The girls came in crying just then, shivering as they watched their father, with red face and twisted brow, chopping their dolly into pieces.

“Where’d you girls find this?” Hurley yelled, staring nervously at the decimated potato as though its parts might grow back together any moment. When they didn’t respond, Hurley grabbed his crying girls by the arms and made them walk him to the place — one of the new fields far in back of the house — where they had discovered the potato lady. 

The hole they showed their father was a couple feet in diameter and a few feet deep. It seemed to Hurley too large a pit to have been dug by his daughters, but before he could ask if it was their doing they had run away.

Over the next hours Hurley dug the hole even deeper and wider, occasionally finding other deformed potatoes. They weren’t human in shape, but they weren’t the normal kind either. Some were quite large and were buried at unusual depths. He tossed each one over his shoulder and kept digging. 

“I’ll dig clear to Satan’s cupboard if I haffta!” Hurley exclaimed.

As the sun was going down Margaret rang the dinner bell hanging over the front porch repeatedly until it nearly broke out of its yoke. The girls, who’d been in hiding since the destruction of their dolly, eventually answered the call and pointed their dirty fingers in the direction of the field where they’d left Hurley. Margaret marched along in that direction until she saw potatoes being flung out of the ground.

“Supper’s on, Papa. Best come while it’s warm,” Margaret hollered toward the hole without question or concern for Hurley’s doings.

When he heard the deadened sound of his wife’s words hitting the dirt, Hurley looked up at the darkening sky and waited again for the Lord to speak. After what he thought to have been an ample amount of time with no words coming from above, Hurley scrambled out of the pit, suddenly afraid he might get sucked down deeper at any moment. 

The family was sitting quietly at the table when Hurley arrived. His daughters stared at the floor, breathing uneasily. Margaret joined hands with them when their father took his seat. Hurley then reached his hands out as well. The girls’ sweaty palms and nervous fingers felt as though they would jump or slip right out of Hurley’s tight grip, but he paid them no mind as he began the meal prayer.

“Dear Lord, our Father, we thank you for the bounty you have given us, and we ask you to forgive our indulgences, to watch over and keep us in your grace, to bless this house and this family…”

Margaret, thinking Hurley was about at the “amen” part, began to let go of the girls’ hands, but when she looked up and saw her husband’s closed, twitching eyes, she realized he was meaning to say more. And more he did say.

“Father… please don’t forsake us! If these are the last days, show us how to follow the path to your Kingdom.”

Hurley looked up then, as if from a bad dream, and stared blankly ahead. Margaret waited a moment and then began placing portions of meatloaf, mashed potatoes, and green beans on the plates. Everyone seemed hesitant to eat. Margaret took a first bite. The girls joined after. 

“Did you stop at the bank, Hurl?” Margaret asked after a while. 

“Yes,” Hurley answered.

“What’d they say ‘bout the car loan?”

“We have plenty collateral.”

“Can we go to town next weekend?”

Hurley nodded, took a deep breath, and ate a few bites from the plate in front of him. 

When dinner was over Hurley excused himself and went for a walk under the waning crescent moon. He thought about the many visions of an imminent apocalypse he’d had as a boy. 

“That’s when people still believed, Lord,” Hurley said to the sky.

In those days the elders listened to young Hurley’s religious fervor with interest and even encouraged him to testify during weekly service. But as Hurley came of age his visions became increasingly strange, and the older, true-believing elders who’d once given their attention to the unusual boy were either no longer around or no longer willing to share in Hurley’s enthusiasm for the end times.

As Hurley paced uneasily through the empty fields, he recalled his last vision — “the incident,” as his parents and elders had called it —  remembering how clear it all was, as if someone had suddenly lifted a curtain or wiped smudge off a dirty window. 

That Halloween day in 1952, as Hurley looked around the gymnasium at the other high school seniors dressed as vampires, Frankensteins, ghosts, and zombies, he was overcome by the most harrowing and realistic apocalyptic vision he’d ever had. 

The first thing Hurley noticed was the odd behavior. Everyone started making snide, nasty comments to each other. It was as if the worst trait, the most negative part of each person’s personality, had become exaggerated and more pronounced. Shortly after that Hurley saw his classmates’ facial features were changing as well. It was almost funny at first to see how caricature-like they all looked. But then the agitation came…

It was the eerie music that seemed to activate them. It kept slowing down and speeding up until it became hard to tell what the song was anymore. Eventually the music found a steady pace — a slow clopping rhythm in a minor key with the mood of a funeral dirge. It sounded as if it were from a distant land or an ancient time. The costumed kids moved around to it in an out-of-sync fashion — twitching and contorting. The more frenzied they became the more their bodies began to change as well.

It seemed to Hurley they were waiting for a signal that might come any moment. Something to let them know they could stop pretending to be people. 

It was only a matter of minutes until the transformation was complete. Hurley suddenly saw himself surrounded by gnashing, snarling, demons — writhing around the room in circles, ready to wreak havoc on the innocent and devour human flesh. 

As he bounded out of the class and away from the school, Hurley looked up and saw a huge explosion in the sky. He ran clear to Elder Baumgarten’s house and demanded the elder call the Bishop. Neither the Bishop nor the Elder could calm the hysterical boy. They listened to his rantings with measured patience and finally told him he’d been daydreaming. They said if it had truly been a prophetic vision he would’ve seen signs and symbols, the appearance of ancient figures, angels revealing details of the Judgement, the righteous vindicated and the opposition vanquished, and, most importantly, he would’ve seen Jesus making his triumphant return.

It wasn’t until two years later that news of “Operation Ivy,” the first testing of a hydrogen bomb by the U.S., was acknowledged to have been conducted on Nov 1st, 1952 — the day after Hurley’s vision. The 82-ton bomb detonated that day was said to have been 500 times more powerful than the deadly atomic bomb dropped on Nagasaki. Its blast vaporized Elugelab Island in the Western Pacific where it was dropped, leaving in its place a fifteen-story crater more than a mile in diameter. Though Hurley initially thought himself vindicated by the news, no one in the community seemed to remember or care about “the incident.” At that point Hurley had turned almost completely inward, realizing he had no one to rely on other than God Himself. 

When Hurley grew too tired to pace the fields any longer he returned home, climbed into bed with Margaret, and stared at the ceiling, wondering if he should tell her about the potato. 


Throughout the night, dreams came to Hurley as if broadcast through an RCA color television. He saw himself, his family, and a group of Brown people dressed in ancient robes dancing together on American Bandstand. They did the Mashed Potato dance to a performance by Dee Dee Sharp, while outside the TV studio, nuclear blasts thundered, creating smoky haloes.

Hurley awoke excitedly in the early morning of October 22nd, 1962. The dream replayed itself clearly. And unlike Hurley’s previous visions, in this one, he saw all the characteristics of a true prophecy including the return of Jesus Christ — a very different one from the pictures they’d been shown in church.

Margaret was already awake sitting up in bed at the time Hurley arose. When she saw her husband’s wide-open blue eyes she started crying. 

“Jesus is coming,” she said gently, wiping tears and laughing.

Hurley knew she had seen it too. They laughed and cried and held each other. Amazingly, they had both not only seen the coming of Jesus in their dreams, but had seen the same kind of Jesus. The dream-Jesus they had both witnessed was not white, but Black. And not only was He Black, but He was not a “he” at all. The Christ they both had seen in their dreams was a woman.

Hearing the commotion, Clara and Debbie had awoken as well. They cracked the door to their parents’ bedroom tentatively. Hurley waved them over and patted the bed.

When the girls climbed in, Hurley asked, “Did you see it too?”

Clara and Debbie looked at their mother and then nodded. Overjoyed, Hurley hugged his family.

Margaret began to cook breakfast. Hurley came in and wrapped his arms around her waist, taking in a whiff of the delicious food. That’s when he understood what had happened. 

“It’s the tater!” he shouted, causing Margaret to jump.

Hurley knew then that the song “Mashed Potato Time” referred to the last days and the second coming. That was the message from the heavenly angel, Dee Dee Sharp. And the potato lady his girls had found was none other than the holy sacrament, the body of Christ. He pulled the mashed potato leftovers out of the fridge and danced around the kitchen. Hurley realized then that the chosen ones, the true Latter Day Saints who would join Jesus in the Mashed Potato Time, would have to eat from the sacred spud his wife had cooked. 

Frantically he called a few friends from church — telling them about the vision, the potato doll, and the coming. Few listened more than a minute. He couldn’t convince a single soul.

Hurley put the potatoes in the car and drove straight to Bishop Taylor’s house in Pocatello. He thought of clever ways he might trick the Bishop into having a bite of his wife’s cooking with the hopes of saving the community. In the end Hurley realized he had to be honest with the Bishop and let him choose of his own free will.

Interrupted from his supper, the Bishop answered the door and hesitatingly invited the young man inside. He bit his tongue and sat attentively while Hurley rattled on about a song on the radio, a potato lady, and ancient figures dancing on TV. He remembered well the boy’s apocalyptic rantings from years before, but had hoped he would’ve outgrown such nonsense by now. Just as Hurley was getting to the part about the dark-skinned, female Jesus, the Bishop could take no more.

“Listen to me, son. A true prophet, Nephi, said, ‘Satan seeketh that all men might be miserable like unto himself,’” the Bishop quoted. “And my boy, you are looking mighty miserable right now.”

The Bishop went on to tell Hurley about the dangers of demon-led visions. He also said that Satan was using Black people to destroy the agency of God’s children by enticing them with Rock and Roll music.

When Hurley saw there was little hope of convincing the church leader, he left a scoop of potatoes behind on a paper plate in case the unbelieving Bishop changed his mind. He then drove straight to Brock’s Department Store and, just as they were closing, purchased a forty-five RPM record of Dee Dee Sharp’s “Mashed Potato Time.”

On the drive home Hurley flipped on the radio, for unlike Bishop Taylor, he now knew that the Lord sometimes spoke through Black Rhythm and Blues singers. It was the first time Hurley let himself completely revel in the music that had formerly been his secret pleasure. 

That evening, while Hurley and his family danced to Dee Dee’s song and waited for the Black lady Jesus to arrive, John F. Kennedy gave a television address from the Oval Office of the “highest national urgency.” The president revealed to the American people evidence of Russian nuclear missiles in Cuba and spoke of how far the missiles could travel: all the way to Washington D.C. 

Many of Hurley’s fellow parishioners had watched the frightening speech on TV, and some of them, recalling their neighbor’s prophetic words, came to his house seeking help. The dozen or so church members that showed up at Hurley’s door that night were welcomed inside and invited to partake in mashed potatoes — both the food and the dance — while they waited for the Judgement. 

In the days that followed, with the world still standing and no sign of Jesus, word got around about the “Rock and Roll orgy” that had occurred at the Brennan home. In response, Elder Baumgarten, the other elders, counselors, and even some who ate and danced that night in Hurley’s house demanded the Brennans be excommunicated from the Mormon faith. A disciplinary council came to order soon thereafter, and when Hurley would not denounce his visions or actions, he and his family were disfellowshipped and told never to darken the door of a Mormon temple again. Bishop Taylor was the only high-ranking member who did not vote to expel the “false prophet.”

Unwilling to stay in the hostile environment, Hurley sold the farm and loaded his family and a few possessions into the pickup truck. They began driving south towards Northern Mexico, where Hurley had heard other Latter Day Saints, castouts like himself, had made a home. There, in the Sierra Madre Mountains amongst other exiles, Hurley testified and bore witness once again. While the Mormon transplants he encountered appreciated the stranger’s fervor for the last days, they did not welcome talk of a Black lady Jesus or believe it was proper to use pop music for prophetic practice. Hurley, also noticing that many in the group were practicing polygamy, didn’t feel comfortable staying there long.

Cast-outs once again, the Brennans left the American Mormon enclave with no direction and, even more devastating for Margaret and Hurley, no church affiliation. 

As they piled back into the Chevy, Hurley flipped the radio on, hoping to hear the Lord speak through one of his Rhythm and Blues messengers once again. But as they traveled deeper into Mexico, and farther from the “border blaster” stations that played American music, they found themselves completely immersed in Spanish language programming, particularly Conjunto and Norteño music stations.

 Margaret worried about the girls not having a home and being out of school so long. Hurley comforted her, explaining he was still seeing visions of the dark, female Christ in his dreams and sensed she was nearby. 

The girls picked up Spanish words and phrases quickly and often interpreted for their parents who were slower to catch on. In nearly every village they went through, Hurley had his daughters ask locals about a Black woman savior. They had little luck the first few days, but one afternoon, when they stopped at a roadside taco stand for lunch, the girls directed their father’s question to a short, stocky woman making tortillas. The woman smiled and spoke to the girls of La Morenita, “The Dear Dark One.” Excitedly, Hurley asked where they could find her. Mysteriously, the woman replied that the Santa Madre, La Morenita, was everywhere.

The Brennans continued traveling South, eagerly asking locals about Santa Madre. Eventually they were told of a place called Tepeyac, a hillside north of Mexico City, where they would find La Morenita. 

When they arrived in Tepeyac, they followed pilgrims to the Basilica of Guadalupe. There the Brennans discovered many faithful devotees praying to a dark Virgin Mary. Amongst the people rubbing rosaries, offering candlelight, and kneeling in prayer, Hurley met some who said that Santa Maria, La Morenita, was more than just the mother of Jesus. As one such devotee explained to Hurley’s daughters, “How can She be the mother of God, and not be the mother of everything?”

When Hurley and Margaret indicated they were interested to hear more, the man, Jose, invited them to join himself and a small group of pilgrims at a camp nearby. The Americans shared their experiences and visions with Jose and his group and no one acted surprised, upset, or contrary. In fact, Jose said there were men and women in his own village who ate sacred plants and would then sing, dance, and have visions. They were called curanderos. 

Jose’s wife, known to everyone in the camp as Abuelita, called the Brennan girls to her. She touched their heads and felt their hands and played games with them. After a while, Abuelita told Jose that the girls had special gifts. She said that if the Americans wanted she would train them in the ways of Curanderismo, for Abuelita was herself endowed with special gifts. 

The Brennans followed Jose and Abuelita to their home — the mountain village Huautla de Jiménez in the Northern corner of the Southern state of Oaxaca — and in that beautiful and welcoming place, the Americans made a home as well. Hurley helped with farming and taught everyone the Mashed Potato dance. Soon, “Baile de Papas,” as they called it, blended in with other ritual dances and became part of the traditional Mazatec autumn harvest ceremony. Margaret became close with Abuelita and the other wise women of the area. Clara and Debbie were fully initiated into the Mazatec tradition and became highly-sought-after curanderas in their own right when they were grown.

As the years went on, Hurley occasionally ate sacred plants with the Mazatec curanderos, and while he continued to have visions for the rest of his life, he stopped speaking of the “last days” until his own last day, when, on his deathbed, he called out to Margaret, “It’s Mashed Potato Time.”

There are still a few old-timers around Southeastern Idaho who remember dancing all night in the Brennans’ living room on October 22nd, 1962. 

No one has dug up a potato lady since the Brennans left. 


Jake La Botz is a touring musician and meditation teacher. His songs, and sometimes acting, have been featured in film and television, including True DetectiveShamelessRambo and many more. La Botz’s fiction has recently appeared or is forthcoming in Metonym, The Museum of Americana, and In Parentheses. www.jakelabotz.com.

Dr. Arcticus’s Kitchen is located in a quiet wooden cabin, three hours’ drive from the city. A dirt road snakes through the trees to the heavy metal front door, which buzzes open when you arrive. White light floods the room from long overhead lamps, gently lapping against the light blue walls and cream-colored tiles on the floor. The restaurant seats one customer, who sits at a counter and watches the food as it’s prepared. Dr. Arcticus requires that reservations be made eight weeks in advance.

“You’re not like most of my patrons,” says Dr. Arcticus. I don’t reply. It’s the fourth time I’ve been here, but only the first time that he’s flirted with the notion of small talk. After some final touches, he presents the first dish of many: ten poached toes, sans toenails, served with vinaigrette and thin slices of lemon.

“You’re not like most of my patrons,” he repeats louder, as if I hadn’t heard him the first time. Dr. Arcticus wears a white chef’s jacket with buttons down the front. His bald head shines in the lamplight, but his eyes are dark, and I make sure to tread carefully around their hollow abysses. 

I don’t know exactly what to say. Is Dr. Arcticus insulting my appearance? But my suit is ironed, my shoes are polished, my face is clean-shaven. “Thank you,” I reply as I take a bite of meat. He passes silent judgment as I eat my food. 

Dr. Arcticus first entered my life through whispers. I heard his name while carrying platters of caviar-cilantro hor d’oeuvres as I weaved through gaggles of bankers and financiers. Dr. Arcticus, they’d confide in one another with hushed, excited voices. For a once-in-a-lifetime experience, a man once said. He was nothing special, one of hundreds of partygoers with the same gray hair and black-rimmed glasses and silver cufflinks. But there was a certain quality in his voice that I had not heard before, that could not fail to captivate his audience of eager gossips. He spoke of Dr. Arcticus’ Kitchen with arrogant knowledge. The small crowd listened to his descriptions of grotesque dishes and exotic flavors. I could see the reverent awe among the junior members, some of whom were barely older than myself. The gray-haired man spoke like he had completed some heroic task that we mortals were incapable of undertaking. He carried himself as though he were a demigod, cut from some superior cloth. Such hubris! When a woman in a black suit requested Dr. Arcticus’s phone number, he did not waver for even a second. 

The first time I went to Dr. Arcticus was simply to spite this man. It was a moral victory; expensive, but a victory nonetheless. Nowadays, though, I return to Dr. Arcticus’s Kitchen for the intimacy. True, Dr. Arcticus speaks very little, but in his kitchen there is a sort of understanding that I have begun to appreciate: We are above the rest. For an hour and a half, I am extraordinary. And to share these moments with an equal, a mystery man, the untouchable Dr. Arcticus, and to know that our perverse meal will never be known to the world — well, could anything else possibly be more worthy of a month and a half’s worth of paychecks?

You’re not like most of my patrons. Certainly, I am nothing like the gray-haired man at the party — I am younger, but more importantly, I am discreet. I will not undermine myself by blabbing away my knowledge about Dr. Arcticus. Besides, people who talk like that are always weaker than they let on. I wonder if that man threw up at the mere sight of the first course, or if he managed to heroically choke down a forkful of meat before vomiting it back a second later. Surely, he did not return to Dr. Arcticus’ Kitchen. Perhaps my fourth visit is an all-time record, a testament to my nerves. I grow increasingly content with my decision to take Dr. Arcticus’ statement as a compliment.

When I am finished with my appetizer, Dr. Arcticus serves me a creamy Caesar salad that substitutes anchovies for bite-sized morsels of flesh. Back meat, he says.

Tonight’s dinner is courtesy of Benjamin Turnett, aged 43. Dr. Arcticus always does this right before the third course, recounting the long history of your meal. My salad plate has been cleared, but I must now wait like an obedient hound as Dr. Arcticus closes his eyes and speaks, slowly, about Benjamin. Born in the Midwest as an only child. Regional spelling bee champion at age twelve. Community college graduate, office job at a plastics company for eighteen years until the business folded. Just barely outlived his parents, until his death from carbon monoxide poisoning. 

The eulogy today feels particularly long-winded, but I can tell Dr. Arcticus is wrapping up. “He was a good man,” Dr. Arcticus says, and I wonder how he could know. The sermon concludes with the usual final blessing of sorts: “Benjamin was an unlucky man, and his death was a tragedy.” Dr. Arcticus opens his eyes and looks at me. I stare at my hands on the table and I repeat these words with just the right absence of emotion.

Finally, finally, the entrée is served. Dr. Arcticus brings the dish out from behind the counter — Benjamin’s liver, served tartare with soy sauce — and I have to stop myself from seizing the plate straight from his hands. But tonight, for no particular reason, I am increasingly aware of Dr. Arcticus’ watching eyes, and it encourages me to adopt more restraint. When he places the food in front of me, I wait one, two, three seconds before taking up my fork and knife. I saw off a small piece of liver and place it gently on my tongue.

Something happens. The meat tastes the same as before — gamey, acidic — but there’s something different. A new component, a new depth to it all. What is it like to see a color you’ve never seen before? I am enthralled. I’ve made a discovery, something essential, that I had overlooked before.

Before today I have never felt much appreciation for food’s luxury ingredients. After all, what evidence was there to the contrary? Black truffle risotto and regular mushroom risotto taste only minutely different, especially when reheated in a stove pan. Once, after a dinner party, I took some bites of an unfinished Kobe beef steak, and it revealed itself to be beef, plain and simple. Mushroom is mushroom; meat is meat. At least, I thought as much.

Dr. Arcticus is still staring, hands crossed over his chest. I cut myself another forkful of liver, and the knife glides cleanly through. This time, I close my eyes before taking a bite. And then I understand.


Benjamin Turnett may indeed have worked in an office; he may have been a young spelling bee champion. I have no reason not to believe Dr. Arcticus when he tells me that Benjamin had died of carbon monoxide poisoning.

But in the sobriety of the darkness I can sense other flavors too, and they tell their own story as they mix and mingle on my tongue. The nuances within the sourness of the flesh reveal themselves, resembling dark chocolate more than citrus. Benjamin is angry — aren’t all men? — but his anger, rather than frothing and foaming and biting at the air, instead lurks beneath the surface, tapping softly from within. And there is lust, of course, in the weak and tangy juices that have marinated the flesh. The sandy texture is sadness, surely. But most exciting is the aftertaste, a faint umami of loneliness. It lingers between my gums, and I snake my tongue around my mouth in order to soak up the last drabs of flavor. I wish I could remember the aftertaste of that woman from two months ago — her name escapes me — for comparison.

I open my eyes, and Dr. Arcticus is still watching. No, not watching — he consumes me with those eyes of his. Of course: He has tasted the fruits of his labor, truly tasted, like me. How could he not have? So much time to cook, to reflect, to experiment. How the world must change once you have consumed man, truly savored his essence! How many people has Dr. Arcticus tasted? Dozens, certainly. Perhaps hundreds. Enough, for sure.

Now his staring begins to make sense. Every customer who walks in is their own unique gustatory experience. How frustrating it must be, to watch different flavors parade in and out! What he must be willing to give for just a teaspoon of each patron, to mix into a broth or puree in a blender! It is hunger in his eyes, unquestionably.

I look back at Dr. Arcticus, wondering what his flavor is like. Not a lot of meat; it’s mostly fat underneath that pristine white jacket of his. But the quality is there. He’s a tad saltier than Benjamin, I predict. But when he closes his mouth, clenching his lips together a little too tightly, I can sense that his flesh also contains that lonely, delicious umami.

There is no more small talk. More dishes are served — fingers with a side of tiny potatoes; kidney and bean soup; Benjamin’s heart, seared and served with artichoke — each surpassing the last. With each bite, the dead is reborn. I am intimate with Benjamin now, emotionally and biologically.

I cannot stop wondering about Dr. Arcticus. To taste the flesh of a man who has truly eaten another must be divine. His fingers are lean; I think they’d peel right off of the bone. I want to ask Dr. Arcticus if he thinks they would taste good deep-fried and served with sriracha mayonnaise. If I ask nicely, would he sacrifice a pinky for a loyal customer? No – one taste is too little. A few poached lemon-crusted toes as well would be sufficient. If he resists, perhaps he might be enticed by one of my ears. Would he barter with me: an eye for an eye, a hand for a hand, a pound for a pound? Surely, my flesh is worth the price. But I stay silent.

Dr. Arcticus has seen the change in me. I can tell he knows before dessert (candied eyeballs, served with a scoop of vanilla bean ice cream). When I am finished, he thanks me for my patronage, and tells me that I have enjoyed my last meal at Dr. Arcticus’ Kitchen. It must be too hard for Dr. Arcticus, the poor man, to watch a customer indulge so intensely and with such euphoria, all while Dr. Arcticus cannot serve himself.  There is jealousy in his eyes, and I see it clearly. Jealousy: half-desire, half-anger, a spicy-sweet flavor that seeps throughout the body. Perhaps Dr. Arcticus’ flesh is not quite as luxurious as I originally thought.

Oh Dr. Arcticus, I almost feel sorry for you! I did enjoy our time together, truly, but you have no more cards to play, and so our time comes to an end. For you are not so special anymore, are you? The gift of taste is not yours alone to keep, and it kills you to know that. Alas, we could have been special together. But instead of sharing salvation, you have chosen to shun me, your one true equal. 

You sad, selfish man. I am sure, now,  that if I fried up a chunk of your shoulder, you would taste hardly different from Benjamin Turnett. Hardly different, indeed. You are ordinary, Dr. Arcticus!


Afterward, at home, I pull out a package of pepperoni from the refrigerator as a snack. But after one bite, I end up throwing out the whole bag; the meat has spoiled, most likely. I drink a glass of water instead. 

Before bed, I undress and study my naked body in the mirror. I examine the blue veins beneath my transparent skin, the muscles and skin and fat in my limbs. I am not like Dr. Arcticus after all. Better, I would guess. How much better? I know that the answer lies within. Oh that I might gain a glimpse at my fragile humanity, bound to flesh and bones!

In the end, though, there is only so much I can comprehend from the mirror. I wonder what my liver tastes like.


Henry Lin-David is a writer from Massachusetts who loves mustard. His work has appeared in Flash Fiction Magazine, local newspapers, pen-and-ink letters, and amateur art galleries. He’s also written crossword puzzles for the LA Times and Universal Crossword.

“Is it worse to be someplace awful when you’re by yourself,
or someplace really nice that you can’t share with anyone?”


This is where Theseus ditched Ariadne.
Jump-cut to sweating slabs of feta, to squids
dangling on clotheslines. His lanky frame in
bleached-out blue jeans


practically draining into the horizon.
Rakı going milky in a tall glass of
melting ice. In one version of the story
Ariadne marries


Dionysus—her wine-dark loneliness lit
up with a single sip. Olives green as eyes,
dry bougainvillea flowers like fingernails
over cobblestones.


Others say that no one ever came and she
hung herself. Cue the tomatoes, a gliding
knife: golden hour gilding the scene as Tony
shakes oil from a glass


bottle, preparing a feast as if someone
else might enter the frame. As if it doesn’t
end with him eating alone on a terrace
staring out to sea.


Gregory Emilio is a poet and food writer from southern California. He is the author of the poetry collection Kitchen Apocrypha (Able Muse, 2023), and his poems and essays have appeared in Best New Poets, Gastronomica, North American Review, Tupelo Quarterly, and Southern Humanities Review. He earned an MFA from UC Riverside and a PhD from Georgia State University. A mean home cook and avid cyclist, he lives in Atlanta and teaches at Kennesaw State University.

The galley, the work triangle, double ovens, islands, open plans. It was the advent of the Franklin stove in 1740 that created the room we think of now as the kitchen, internal to the family home; kitchen layouts and features have changed with advancements in technology, the economy and class, family makeup. What used to be relegated to the outdoors or the back of the house, smoky and invisible to daily life, is now fodder for glossy magazines. Entire shows on cable dedicated to redecorating, remodeling, and renovating. The kitchen is the selling feature. 

Though who does the work of cooking and cleaning in that kitchen has mostly remained the same.


I got the mother I’d always wanted when I was thirteen. The man who’s been my dad since I was four years old married a woman who welcomed me fully into her life. Before the wedding we looked through magazines and laughed about poufy princess dresses and supersized bouquets; she let me help pick out fabric for the bridesmaids dresses and set up the table with the guest book and a fancy, feathered pen. After the wedding, I became her assistant cook as well as dance partner in the kitchen. It was usually just the two of us in the kitchen— planning meals, trying out recipes, laughing at our Julia Child impressions and the songs we made up about cooking. She taught me the basics: how to press garlic, chop onions without crying; how to knead dough and separate an egg; the proper way to melt chocolate so it doesn’t burn. Things she had to learn herself when she was thirteen and took on the responsibility of cooking for her family after her mother got sick. I pictured her at my age, still needing a chair to reach the cabinet over the fridge, as she described the many ways that she had molded Jell-O in those early years of cooking. “I thought I was so fancy,” she said.

Macaroni and cheese was one of the first dishes she taught me to make. It was important to know the right way to make it from scratch, she said — she was called out for serving boxed mac and cheese once, at a dinner party. Boxed was the only kind she’d known growing up, she said, but now she knew better. Macaroni and cheese had to be baked — and the only thing that should come out of a box were the noodles themselves. “We’re worth it,” she said. “Even if we’re just cooking for ourselves.” She showed me how to grate large quantities of cheese — always at least two kinds — in the food processor. Then she talked me through making the roux, explained the importance of keeping the whisk in constant motion. “Tiny circles with your wrist,” she said. She stood near in case I needed help, but let me try on my own, because “that’s how you learn.” 


The kitchen at my parents’ old house was a lopsided rectangle. It had three entrances, only one of which had a door that could be closed. It was also the only way to get to the basement or the backyard. A bit of a thoroughfare. The walls were a cheery yellow and the floor a less happy shade of mustard linoleum. Thick layers of white paint coated the cupboards, sometimes making them difficult to open and close all the way. The stove was new and nice — double ovens and a griddle in the center of the burners — but the dishwasher was so ancient it wasn’t even connected to the water. Instead it was on wheels. When you were ready to run a load of dishes, you had to steer the heavy contraption to the sink and connect the tubes to the faucet. Then, there was no using water in the kitchen until the dishes were done. In the meantime, we used the top of the dishwasher like a counter or cutting board, sometimes moving with it toward the sink while still chopping an onion or measuring out flour. 


Every December, my adopted mom explains the steps and the science to me as we make latkes without any sort of recipe. Most of the cooking she learned from her parents isn’t written down. It’s in her body — she just knows it — and that’s how she passes it on. We wash and peel and grate and she tells me how letting the potato sit in its own juices creates the starch that holds the latkes together later, when we put them on the griddle. She scoops her fingers into the bowl and dredges up the sticky goop to show me. “It creates what it needs to make it work.”

Waste is something she cannot stand, whether it be potato water found in the bottom of the roasting pan, or guys in my life who aren’t worth it. “Why waste the tears?” she says, as she puts large pieces of onion into the small food processor instead of chopping them by hand. She means the onions, and the guys. “Why waste your time on someone who makes you cry?” But she has a way to say it that doesn’t make me feel like I’m being judged. I listen. And realize she’s right. “I see you with someone more fun,” she says. I tell her I do, too. 


Eventually there were cocktails, too. Sometime toward the end of my undergrad years, once I’d realized that drinking cheap mystery concoctions out of plastic cups wasn’t the only way to feel like an adult. 

It started with a simple silver shaker and a shot glass. She laid the bartending book open on the counter and talked me through the steps of making the cosmopolitan I knew from Sex and the City. “It tastes better when you make it yourself,” she said. Citrus vodka from the freezer, ice in the shaker, and the martini glasses with a slight blue tint and tiny circles etched up the sides. I was conservative with the vodka and let the lime juice and orange liqueur spill a little over the lip. The cranberry juice was light enough to keep the liquid pink out of the shaker and create a lilac shade in the glass. “Perfect,” she said when she tasted hers, even though she added a splash of vodka after that first sip. 

Mixing cocktails was all about finding the right combination. She let me explore with the liquor cabinet and that shaker. “You have to play around a bit to find what you like,” she said. So I did. I poured and shook and sipped. I perfected the Brandy Alexander, which my parents enjoyed, and came up with a few concoctions of my own that were too sweet for anyone but me. Dessert in a glass. She said I could always make a drink just for me.     


No one else in my family had my extreme sweet tooth, so she taught me to bake a more mundane variety of desserts: cheesecakes and pies, vanilla cake and butter-cream frosting. Always from scratch. Key lime pie for her birthday, because she wasn’t into cake. Something with pecans for my dad, who was more about the main course than dessert. I saw the real difference once my little brother was old enough to appreciate a birthday cake all his own. He had a thing for sweets, like me, though his tastes were lighter. Strawberry cake with vanilla frosting. He challenged me to be creative with cake ideas. Real berries, layers, checkerboard cake that turned into squares when you cut it open. He whistled as I slid a slice onto a plate for him. “I thought I stumped you this time for sure,” he said. But I always got it right.  


Looking for a house of my own now, I think a lot about the kitchen. The layout. The light. The room for potential. I don’t want an open plan, despite what’s in the magazines and on display everywhere I look. I want a kitchen with walls. Something a bit isolated. Small is okay. Old is fine. Needing some work is something I can work with. But I don’t want a view into the rest of the house. I want a kitchen where I can make a mess. Where I can turn up the music and have fun. Where I can forget the television and the rest of the world exists. I want a kitchen that isn’t trying to be something else. 


The kitchen has been the domain of women at least since there’s been a name for the room where all the work gets done. Women’s tasks and women’s space. Even as it changes, so much remains the same. I was taught not to confine myself to what the world wanted or expected of me as a girl and then as a woman. I was taught to be loud and direct and say what was on my mind. I was taught that I could — and should — dream wild and big, without worrying about limits. But those lessons all came in the kitchen. 

It was always just the two of us working in the kitchen — the mother I’d always wanted and me. I didn’t feel trapped in there; I felt free. All that time to talk and laugh and sing, no one telling us to be quiet. The time to just be. I learned that I am worthy of good food, so I cook it for myself. And I learned that I don’t have to cook for anybody but me. The kitchen is mine to do with as I please.  


Emma Burcart lives in Raleigh, North Carolina, where she teaches first grade. She holds an MFA in creative writing from Antioch University Los Angeles. Her work has been published in Cream City Review, The Normal School, and Catapult Magazine, among others.