I can vouch for my people — being Canadian is great.
For a variety of reasons, there seems to be a growing American interest in moving to Canada. If that seems a little too complicated, the next best thing may be this Canadian-themed pop-up barin Manhattan’s Lower East Side.
Two of the hottest burgers on the New York City food scene right now are vegetarian or vegan, and they’re changing the way people think about meat-free food. “One of the biggest problems with bringing vegan food to the mainstream is people think of it as hippie food: crunchy, granola, and sprouts,” says Chloe Coscarelli, the chef behind one of the burgers transcending that stereotype.
Brooks Headley is the chef behind the other. He opened Superiority Burger last June in a tiny space below street level in the East Village. It makes a quinoa-based veggie burger — vegan if you skip the cheese — that GQ in December proclaimed “the best burger of the year” for 2015. “Superiority Burger,” the magazine wrote, “shatters the notion that meatless burgers are nothing more than frozen cardboard vessels for fungus or tofu.” It’s rich and gratifying. In another piece, GQ enumerated the burger’s virtues: “Maybe the best thing about N.Y.C. chef Brooks Headley’s raved-about Superiority Burger — better even than the nutty patty, the roasted umami-bomb tomato, the fact that no cows were harmed in the creation of this sandwich — is the texture. The bun squishes. The lettuce crunches. The pickles snap.”
The 2016 Zagat Guide to New York City was released on Tuesday, with a few surprises. A notable addition to the top 20 restaurants is Graffiti, which received a 28 (on a scale of 1 to 30) for food. Jehangir Mehta’s tiny eclectic spot in the East Village joins a list populated by big guns like Gotham Bar and Grill and Peter Luger.
Last year Graffiti also received a 28, but from too few voters to put it on the top 20 food list, said Evan Barbour, a spokeswoman for the guide.
From the outside, Untitled looks like one of those places where intimate conversation gets lost in the din.
The restaurant, which anchors the architect Renzo Piano’s new home for the Whitney Museum of American Art in the meatpacking district, has all the makings of a cacophony box. The primary walls are glass. That back wall is concrete. The floors? Blue Catalan limestone. The cooks chop and sear in an open kitchen, and the tables don’t have tablecloths.
McGarry rarely engages with his critics, and through Eureka, he actually wants to shift the focus from his character to his food, saying that he knows he’s making himself vulnerable by serving an ambitious, $160, 14-course tasting menu. This week, Grub sat down with McGarry to discuss his decision to open a restaurant at this point in his life, his awareness about his privileges, and how he internalizes all of the negativity surrounding his work.
Grub Street has this amazing list full of tricks for making and eating Summer foods, as well as places in New York City that you might not think to drop by for eating (or drinking) these next three months. Highly recommend checking it out.
“Ten years ago, people were so used to stuffy rituals of tablecloths and silverware and crystal and reservations,” says Ivan Orkin, the noodle whisperer behind Ivan Ramen. “A lot of younger chefs started to say, ‘If you want to eat here, just show up.'” The advantages of a no-reservations policy for an owner are obvious: No need to pay a reservationist when the restaurant is closed, no-shows aren’t an issue, and big crowds waiting outside restaurants can telegraph popularity, in turn possibly attracting more customers. For diners, no-rezzie policies can feel more democratic than a reservation book blocked off with VIP tables. For a time, the practice became so widespread that New York critic Adam Platt took to calling the whole phenomenon “the No-Reservations Generation.”
Maddening logistical challenges involving no-shows and stymied movie stars should be a thing of the past for Ms. Cohen. Earlier this month she opened a reboot of Dirt Candy on the Lower East Side with a much-augmented staff and seats for about 60 customers. At 40, for the first time in her career, she has a reservationist (Cristina Spano) answering the phones. She has the bandwidth for a full bar and a dedicated bartender (Karla Harscheid). She has a pastry chef (Alycia Harrington) overseeing dishes like a chocolate-onion tart and a carrot meringue pie. To maintain control, she’s financing it herself, with help from her family. (She has been married to the writer Grady Hendrix for almost 22 years.)
The restaurant economy of New York City may be nearing a tipping point.
State officials are recommending a big hike in the minimum hourly wage for people who work for tips. But that idea is giving many restaurateurs indigestion in New York City, home to more than 20,000 restaurants. Some say a tipped-wage hike could upend the whole system of tipping.