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Just before I was married, my aunt Melanie gave me a pink three-ring plastic binder filled with the culinary history of my family. It’s essentially a cookbook, filled with recipes from the women on my mom and dad’s sides, and a few from my newly acquired family. Some of the recipes are typed; some are scanned copies of handwritten instructions; some are pages of other cookbooks with notes scribbled around the margins- temperatures crossed out, proportions adjusted. There are a few photos of the finished products on card tables and Christmas buffets. The recipes are attributed, at the bottom, to the family member who created or appropriated them in a little yellow box. Underneath the attributions are field notes: acknowledgments, serving suggestions, words of encouragement, family secrets and folklore.

I tend to read cookbooks with as much an editor’s or historian’s eye as I do a cook’s. Recipes shape-shift and rearrange themselves as they are passed from person to person, becoming something new while still attached to something old. My own writing process has always mimicked my style of cooking: a panicked session of hard-eyed study of a text. Reading, rereading, re-re-reading, researching techniques, ingredients, burying myself in the history of a reference until a plan emerges and inspiration finally rises up from my gut to my hands.

I try to make focaccia for the first time, but it’s too humid in my apartment and it doesn’t rise. The crust bakes a beautiful, golden brown like hay, but it’s hard as a brick and almost chips my tooth. Grudgingly, I make a giant pot of brothy stew so it won’t go to waste. My husband happily chews and swipes the bread through his stew, chattering lovingly, grateful just to be fed, but I know the difference and I sulk.

My own writing process has always mimicked my style of cooking.

The next day, my downstairs neighbor knocks on my door as I am writing a really heartbreaking story that makes me sweat and feel slightly feverish. He is a brewer who brews his own beer in the basement of our building and holds big, festive cookouts in the summer, grilling up Pat LaFreida steaks and corn and baked potatoes. I am up to my elbows in words when he knocks and not just a little annoyed to be interrupted. I open the door and he is holding a loaf of bread. “I had a bunch of spent grain, so I made some sourdough, and way too much of it.” He hands me the loaf, still warm. “How did your focaccia turn out?”

I mutter something about the humidity and yeast. He offers me some of his sourdough starter. “I’ve had it for a few years now. You just have to feed it every few months, but it’s pretty reliable.” I accept his offer and thank him. He’s a really nice guy. I close the door behind him, sit down, and write four more pages in a frenzy, tearing off hunks of warm, tangy bread and devouring them. I eat the whole loaf. It is maddening and perfect.

Only one of my maternal grandmother’s recipes exists in the cookbook. She did not write recipes down. She was the first of ten children, tobacco sharecroppers in Colquitt County,Georgia. Her mother, Leola, worked alongside her husband, planting and reaping whenever she was not pregnant with more free laborers. As the eldest child and her surrogate, my grandmother was responsible for waking up before everyone else and making the huge breakfast that sustained her family’s laboring. Everyone else rose hours later, after the biscuits had been kneaded and baked, the hardtack laid out and the black coffee percolated. She made them pots of greens laced with fatty ham hocks and skillet cornbread. She made all of these things from memory, from improvisation in fallow years, from what her mother or aunts showed her when she was old enough to understand and be taught. Some years later, one of her grandchildren pleaded that she write down her recipe for apple pie. When I try to follow the recipe, I’m bewildered. There are no cook times, only “until bubbling and browned,” no specifics on the thickness of apple slices – the implication being that you should know. This is knowledge we women possess.

This is knowledge we women possess.

After college, my mother had dreamed of becoming a journalist. However, my father’s infidelities became incontrovertible and at 23 years old she found herself heartbroken, divorced while pregnant, with a daughter to raise alone. Her life, as my grandmother’s, would be spent caring for others instead of writing about them. Like my grandmother, she did not complain about providing (or if she did it never reached our ears). She became an English teacher. She worked and fed and taught. I wonder what she could have written if she hadn’t devoted herself to the shaping of young minds, applying heat and fermenting ideas and allowing them to bubble up, golden.

It is impossible for me, when writing, not to consider these women and the things they wrote down and the things they did not write down. I think about a note added to a pound cake by a cousin of my other grandmother’s from Detroit in the ‘40s, the daughter of a marine merchant: “After the cake is in the oven, leave in for 45 minutes and walk softly upon the kitchen floor.” I think about my neighbor and his stupid perfect loaf of bread. I get annoyed and then I get to work. I am much older than I thought I would be when finally able to devote myself to writing. I am not as good as a lot of others much younger and better educated than me. I am not making airy pound cakes or fluffy focaccia. I’m making the dense, short biscuits my grandmother made. I am using all of the butter that is called for and drizzling them with honey.


Rachel Knox is a writer and student at The New School in New York City. She is originally from St. Petersburg, Florida and writes both fiction and nonfiction. She lives and works in Brooklyn.

Featured image via Flickr.

by Anya Regelin

Let’s get this out of the way: I cook professionally and I don’t taste my food, and I haven’t, by choice, in years. Before you start thinking that I cannot possibly be a real chef, I will tell you that I have been cooking professionally for close to thirteen years, first in restaurants, and for the past seven, privately.

So how do I do this, and more importantly why do I do this? Not tasting started as a little one-time experiment “just to see what would happen.” The practice has stuck, and now, for the most part, I have not tasted anything that I have made for my clients in over three years. Hand formed chocolate tarts, homemade artichoke ravioli, cured Hamachi with preserved lemon, truffle infused custards? Nope. Chicken Soup? Occasionally. Chicken soup can be tricky.

Back when I went to culinary school, I was taught that a good cook tasted everything — all of the time. Not doing so was akin to a writer not running spell check. (I was also taught that in the culinary-world-food-chain, private chefs were one step above caterers, essentially not cut out to hack it with the big boys, the guys who toiled night after night in professional restaurant kitchens, preferably with multiple stars after their names. I later changed my opinion about this as well.)

A little over three years ago, I was in the middle of frantically preparing a four-course dinner party for fifteen. The menu was ambitious and my clients were ultra-rich and demanded ultra-fancy food that would wow their dinner guests. These clients were also ultra-orthodox Jews and all of the food was prepared under strict Kosher guidelines, a restriction that I was incredibly new to. I was constantly manipulating recipes while crossing my fingers in the hopes that things would work out as planned. I dipped and licked out of nervousness, constantly questioning if what I was cooking was any good and if my difficult clients would ever be pleased.

Private cheffing is not like restaurant cooking. A restaurant cook typically works on a station doing one of ten things over and over again. If the first batch of brussel sprouts aren’t perfectly caramelized, you might get yelled at a little bit, but don’t worry, you have forty more orders over the course of the night to make them right. Ultimately, it’s all about repetition. A private chef, however, rarely gets more than one chance to prepare a single dish.

Having worked in the type of restaurants where it is all about producing perfection on a plate, I was having a difficult time relaxing as a private chef and trusting the cooking process. Even while working alone, I demanded the same intricate, highly stylized food that usually took a small army cooks to produce. My energy in the kitchen was charged, nervous, and frenetic, and it was affecting the quality of my food. I found myself tasting everything — constantly. Was it OK? Was there enough salt? More salt. Oh no, too much salt! Add lemon. Oh no, too much lemon! I licked, smacked, and dipped myself crazy. I was so consumed with how perfect the finished plate should look and taste that I was losing my head in the process.

That day, in the middle of preparing that intricate dinner for fifteen, I decided to change the way that I worked. Over the next few hours I paid careful attention to every step of every dish. I resisted the urge to taste to just “see how I was doing.” I drizzled olive oil and looked for color and texture. I inhaled deeply to catch subtle aromas and added a bunch of thyme. I was immediately unable to multitask. A calm fell on the kitchen.

Right before the dinner party was about to start, I lined up all of my pots and armed with a teaspoon, I sampled each one. Maybe a sauce needed a little salt. Maybe. But who am I to say what the right amount of salt is? Whenever I go to a restaurant, I’m always the first to ask for the saltshaker. (In fact, it is one of my pet peeves when a restaurant makes you ask for salt, only to be met with an eye roll from a hipster waiter who just learned how to pronounce foie gras stuffed angolotti five minutes before his shift started.)

I do realize that I am no food genius, but I started to think, Beethoven went deaf at the height of his music career, yet he continued to compose music because he trusted that what he heard in his head was the same that his audience appreciated. Not that I am comparing myself to Beethoven, but what I had was a trust issue. My obsession with the perfection of my final product was overwhelming the process of cooking in the first place. And what is cooking, after all, but a series of creative, chemical, processes? When I stopped using my sense of taste to be the first and foremost judge of “good,” my food actually got better. My dishes were more dynamic and colorful; simultaneously simple yet ambitious.

Yes, but what did the meal taste like? I have no idea. But at that dinner party, the plates came back clean.

Anya Regelin is the Deputy-Editor of The Inquisitive Eater. “Perfection on the Plate” is the first installment of The Tasteless Chef, a regular column chronicling her exploits and misadventures as a freelance private chef. 

by Binh Nguyen

RECIPE
The gunmetal look of the sky opens the scene
to this late fall afternoon.  Soon after, snow
rushes down outside the kitchen window
as if fleeing from the incurable grayness
of the clouds.

In here I watch the fire on the stove waving
its tiny tongues wildly—like some ghost
intent on telling it all in the confessional
stall of the blaze.

—Or like a devilish coquette who sticks
out her tongue, flutters it, as a way of saying
hello.  The flame keeps reaching its yellow
-blue tips upward toward the bottom of the pot,
tickling the thing,

making the soup I’m now stirring with this
ladle to boil in no time, which I then
serve into a small bowl, adding a sprinkle
of salt and pepper—a light kind of supper
for this type of weather.
Binh Nguyen studied literature and creative writing with the poet Jim Crenner at Hobart College, where he founded and edited SCRY! A Nexus of Politics and the Arts.  In 2006, Binh was enrolled in an MFA poetry workshop in New York City but was in a near-death accident which prevented him from completing the degree. He now lives in San Diego. 

I watch my father slice into a ripe, plump tomato engorged with juice and pulp. The innards of the fruit, a slush of orange red seeds and jelly like fluid, seep onto the cutting board and between his large fingers.  His hands massage the medallions of venison, loosen the meat to better absorb flavors of brine or marinade.  He presses his knuckles into the malleable protein, his flesh glossy in the bright lights above him in our kitchen as he works the heels of his palms into the marbled fat and tendon then rubs it with a thin layer of pepper and salt.  The exertion makes the vessels on his forearms bulge and twitch.  I watch the way his face changes, kneading the seasoning into the mutton, his concentration focused on the motion of his fingers and precision of preparation.

My father’s fingers curl over curved surfaces.  His large palms and length of his fingers work with machine-like precision, tying tiny but secure knots with thin twine to hold a leg of lamb together, stuffed with herb butter and breadcrumbs.  The rapid pulse of his steel blade carves and minces whole vegetables into piles of petite, colorful shapes.  His two hands seem to multiply, performing multiple tasks at once: chopping, scoring, arranging, molding, and crafting, a metamorphosis of dexterity.  He neither rushes nor lags; patient in a meticulous way that knows no flaws.  His face undulates into curves of concentration as he moves the knife in quick strokes

~

The ledge of the viewing window only reaches my nose.  I learn the odd mini-knife he holds like a pencil between his gloved fingers is called a scalpel.

“Are you sure your daddy doesn’t mind you watching?”  A passing nurse voicing concern appears in the reflection of the window behind me.  I shake my head no and tell her I’ve watched before so she disappears into the hallways and returns with a plastic chair.  Waving her away from helping me, I climb on top and peer into the operating room where my father is working.  He creates an invisible line with his index finger guiding the slight blade across the surface of flesh, drawing the path of the incision towards him.  I can hear my mother in my head: “Never cut towards yourself, Halle, always away.”  The line of crimson is piercing in the O.R. light, widening until two halves of skin give way into a gaping cavity.

~

Knife and scalpel: my father prepares dinner the same way he works in the operating room, does not grip the knife with impatient fingers but holds the black handle as if he is holding my hand, gentle but firm.  The blade slides through the supple flesh of the tomato with a clean-cut edge, sharp and unwavering.  His technique lets him cleave and sever with a rhythm that picks up speed as the tomato transforms into little pieces. He shovels the soppy pile of fruit into a nearby pot, his hand ladle-like, and then swipes the cutting board with his palm to add to the rest of the mixture.  He never wastes anything.  Each component has a purpose.

Cooking dinner is a daylong routine for my father.  Before we leave for the hospital on weekend mornings he prepares his mise en place, makes sure the meat is marinating well in a glass dish, chops herbs, dices and juliennes vegetables and places them in small metal bowls like edible confetti.  The refrigerator is stuffed with the various components of dinner not yet prepared.

~

There are utensils and trays, bowls, containers of stainless steel, plastic, rubber, liquids, bottles, sharp instruments to sever, manipulate, cut, hack, and slice.  My father deconstructs and reconstructs, recreating something he can call his own.  The rooms are immaculate, then dirtied, spattered, smeared.  Every necessity has a place where he can find it, all at his fingertips.  Nurses hand him what he asks for with an extended palm.   In the kitchen, I fetch what he needs but pretend to be one of his assistants in surgery.  I imagine I am gowned and masked, careful with the supplies, handing them over placed lengthwise in my palms like a platter.  He requests a peeler and I hand him forceps.  He asks for a dishcloth I bestow him with a surgical sponge.  He wants balsamic vinegar I give him saline.  “Yes doctor.  Here is your instrument Dr. Murcek.”

The lights illuminate solid instruments against supple organs, meat, and flesh, glistening and slick in water, blood, oil, and sweat.  My father’s hands have a constant gloss.

“No room for error in medicine.”  My father’s father told him, a surgeon in World War II.

“No such thing as error in cooking,” is my father’s credo in the kitchen.

~

I press my small hands against the glass that separates me from the sterile space.  Bodies dressed in identical mint uniforms skew the panorama of the room and I cannot find my father, camouflaged within waves of green cloth, lost amongst the masked faces and blur of movements under the white hot light.  Finally, I find him perched over a mass covered by a sterile blue sheet.  A daughter knows the presence of her father even when he is in uniform:  the way his forehead is void of lines even though he is concentrating for precision, movements rhythmic.  He reaches up to adjust the thick surgical glasses that protect his eyes, then does the same to a headband situated over his surgical cap attached with a small light at the center of his forehead like a miner.  His hands disappear into unknown territory only to be extracted for a different tool.  Swift and precise, but patient, he molds, scrapes, severs and rebuilds.  The vibrancy of red that coated his rubber gloves when he withdraws them from inside the body, throbs.  Red beats life into the body.

He does not move from his position over the operating table and the arches of my feet ache.  My father stands for ten hours at a time during his surgeries.  He holds out a latex hand again, fingers dipped red, and another gloved one passes him a metal plate with rounded edges. Are his feet sore like mine?  Bodies pivot away to reveal my father pulling something floppy and thick, porous, the color of ripe melon on one side, splotched maroon on the other.  He stretches and folds back this slab of flesh over and over, replacing it as if making adjustments on the covered mass.

The table jostles as a green anonymous body exposes a section of the mass covered earlier.  This thing is human; eyes taped shut like a damaged mannequin.  What appears to be half of a nose sits above lips parted with tubes.  There is another flap of skin, I now see, is the patient’s right cheek.  My father adjusts the section of skin and muscle over the metal plate now secured to the patient’s face like a robot.  Half of it has been sliced away.  I reach up to my own cheek.  Pat and poke it.  My stomach squeezes into my throat like toothpaste in a tube.

The deconstructed face sticks fast in my memory.  The viewing window is not a TV screen. I can’t push a button to make the image go away.  It will be the last surgery of my father’s I will watch.

~

I bite into the leftover slices of red tomato, knowing the pieces are too large to fit into my mouth whole.  But I slide the wedges in anyway like quarters into a slot machine, struggle with chewing the mushy, pulpous fruit.  A small soft mass of the tomato’s guts escapes between my lips and past the corners of my mouth, down the side of my jaw.  I let the liquid sit on the precipice of my chin, deciding at the last second whether or not to let it drip into unknown territory.  It reminds me of what I do with an open wound.  The blood swelling from a pinprick into a small nodule of red until it leaks down either side of my elbow or knee, arm or leg or finger.  I like to watch it accumulate, amazed at how the body thrives, that a substance can escape from the inside out.  I have no control.


Halle Murcek currently writes for online news media magazine, Tripped Media and attends The New School as a graduate student in the creative writing MFA program with a concentration in fiction.  Halle currently lives in New York City.

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P4ulON4G1y4&feature=relmfu]

How do we build stronger foodsheds where urban buyers and close-by farmers and producers can connect and thrive? How do we implement new market relationships to change food systems at the local, regional, and ultimately at the national level?

THE NEW SCHOOL FOR GENERAL STUDIES |http://www.newschool.edu/generalstudies

The New School, Edible Manhattan and GrowNYC/Greenmarket present an afternoon of panel discussions and group conversations where experts, practitioners, scholars, and concerned citizens get together to explore these urgent issues including:

Liz Carollo, publicity manager, Greenmarket/GrowNYC.
Zaid Kurdieh, farmer, Norwich Meadow Farms.
John Moore, vice president, Dallis Brothers Coffee.

FOOD STUDIES | http://www.newschool.edu/foodstudies

Moderated by Brian Halweil, editor, Edible East End and publisher of Edible Manhattan and Edible Brooklyn, and Fabio Parasecoli, associate professor and coordinator, New School Food Studies Program.

Location: Wollman Hall, Eugene Lang Building.
05/07/2011 3:00 p.m. – 6:00 p.m

THE NEW SCHOOL | http://www.newschool.edu

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0HkkWMZEJ4g&feature=relmfu]

How do we build stronger foodsheds where urban buyers and close-by farmers and producers can connect and thrive? How do we implement new market relationships to change food systems at the local, regional, and ultimately at the national level?

THE NEW SCHOOL FOR GENERAL STUDIES |http://www.newschool.edu/generalstudies

The New School, Edible Manhattan and GrowNYC/Greenmarket present an afternoon of panel discussions and group conversations where experts, practitioners, scholars, and concerned citizens get together to explore these urgent issues including:

Mary Cleaver, founder/president, The Cleaver Company.
Gary Giberson, founder/president, Sustainable Fare.
Jim Hyland, co-founder, Farm 2 Table Co-packers and president, Winter Sun Farms.

FOOD STUDIES | http://www.newschool.edu/foodstudies

Moderated by Shayna Cohen, Wholesale Greenmarket Specialist, GrowNYC, and Fabio Parasecoli, associate professor and coordinator, New School Food Studies Program.

Location: Wollman Hall, Eugene Lang Building.
05/07/2011 3:00 p.m. – 6:00 p.m.

THE NEW SCHOOL | http://www.newschool.edu

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GxISR9CUvfk]

This panel considers the life and work of Pellegrino Artusi on the 100th anniversary of his death. His 1891 cookbook, The Science of Cooking and the Art of Eating Well, was a turning point in the history of Italian food, establishing a national culinary canon and creating a common culinary language for the newly unified country. His impact on Italian cooking is unmatched to this day. Panelists: Michele Scicolone, cookbook author; Roberto Ludovico, professor of Italian literature, University of Massachusetts at Amherst; Mitchell Davis, vice president of the James Beard Foundation; and chef Cesare Casella, dean of the Italian Culinary Academy.

Moderated by Fabio Parasecoli, coordinator, New School Food Studies Program | http://www.newschool.edu/ce/foodstudies

THE NEW SCHOOL FOR GENERAL STUDIES |http://www.newschool.edu/generalstudies

Co-presented by the Food Studies program and the James Beard Foundation.

Location: Theresa Lang Community and Student Center, Arnhold Hall.
03/31/2011 6:00 p.m

THE NEW SCHOOL | http://www.newschool.edu

    [youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M1tcx08ia48&feature=relmfu]

    How do your personal food choices influence larger social and political issues? Listen as Fabio Parasecoli, coordinator of Food Studies at The New School, discusses the rise of food studies over the past decade, and its emergence as a truly urban discipline.

    THE NEW SCHOOL | http://www.newschool.edu
    http://www.newschool.edu/foodstudies

    For more information, contact the Food Studies program at foodstudies@newschool.edu