For reasons no one can explain, curly fries never gets their due. A staple of pool-club snack shops, bowling-alley concession counters, and each of Arby’s 3 zillion locations, this relic of late-20th-century cuisine has somehow eluded the culinary anthropologists who busy themselves digging up old edible artifacts and updating them for a new audience. A decade ago, this could have been blamed on food snobs demanding fresh-cut fries made from potatoes grown by local farmers and lovingly hand-blanched by chef-artists. Even though this is no longer the case, and all sorts of fries and fast-food staples have found adoration once again, curly fries remain unloved. Yet this is just one more way in which they are perfect.
Fry on at Grubstreet.