Harlem’s African-restaurant scene has been fairly insular, mainly attracting immigrants homesick for their native dishes. And as upper Manhattan continues to gentrify, beloved neighborhood spots clustered around 116thStreet’s “Little Senegal” have been displaced. The good news is that several have reopened nearby, joined by newcomers serving food beyond West African, from places like Somalia and Ethiopia. And the appeal of these diverse cuisines has begun to grow outside immigrant enclaves as American chefs like Sean Brock of Husk in Charleston and the Cecil’s Joseph “JJ” Johnson take inspiration from the African diaspora and the aftermath of the slave trade on foodways and culinary traditions throughout the world.
Read on at Grub Street.