Chefs with an eye on the bottom line try to avoid kitchen waste. In a memorable scene in Bill Buford’s book “Heat,” Mario Batali berates Babbo’s cooks for throwing out vegetable scraps that could make perfectly good ravioli fillings while he roots around in a trash can like a bear cub at a campground. In their search for overlooked ingredients, Mr. Barber and his crew did more than that. They went out on a crosstown refuse hunt.
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