Maddening logistical challenges involving no-shows and stymied movie stars should be a thing of the past for Ms. Cohen. Earlier this month she opened a reboot of Dirt Candy on the Lower East Side with a much-augmented staff and seats for about 60 customers. At 40, for the first time in her career, she has a reservationist (Cristina Spano) answering the phones. She has the bandwidth for a full bar and a dedicated bartender (Karla Harscheid). She has a pastry chef (Alycia Harrington) overseeing dishes like a chocolate-onion tart and a carrot meringue pie. To maintain control, she’s financing it herself, with help from her family. (She has been married to the writer Grady Hendrix for almost 22 years.)
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