You may not think of garlic as a seasonal ingredient, but it is, and the season is now. I am an unabashed garlic lover, and from midsummer forward, I use it in just about everything. This is garlic that, instead of being plucked young and sold as shoots called green garlic, is allowed to mature and form large heads. It comes with the roots still on and the stalks attached, and since it hasn’t been air-dried for long storage, like the familiar grocery-store garlic, the skin enclosing the individual cloves is still moist, not papery.

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